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41.
42.
I feel greatly honoured to be awarded the Oceanographical Society of Japan Prize for 1989, and to be given this opportunity to look back at my past activities in research and education, and to present them as an example for younger members of our Society. Taking this opportunity, I acknowledge with sincere thanks many persons who guided me or who have collaborated with me since I was a young student up to the present.My past academic history may be divided into three periods. In the first period (1955–71) at Kyoto University which included and eighteen month visit to the University of Chicago, I studied the production of air bubbles and droplets at the sea surface by wind-wave breaking, and the supply and distribution of the sea-salt particles from the sea to the atmosphere. The first nondimensional formulation of the form of single air bubbles floating at liquid surfaces was also presented. In the second period (1971–1981) I pursued, at the new Physical Oceanography Laboratory of Tohoku University, the concept of wind waves which are coupled with the wind. I proposed the 3/2-power law of wind waves and the high frequency part of the wind-wave spectral form which is proportional to the friction velocity of air and to the –4th power of frequency. Detailed investigations of wind-wave phenomena were also performed in wind-wave tunnels by introducing quantitative flow visualization techniques and together with my students, we elucidated ordered motions in the flows below and above wind waves. The Tohoku Wave Model was also developed in which the similarity laws of wind waves, which are strongly coupled with the air flow, were explicitly used. In the third period (1982-present), my area of interest has become broader and, togerther with my students and my overseas collaboratos, we are studying the connection of local physical processes at the air-sea boundary with studies of larger scale ocean-atmosphere interactions. One aspect of this has led to the organization of the Ocean Mixed Layer Experiment (OMLET, 1987–91), as part of the Japanese national programmes of the World Climate Research Programme. Another interest is the ongoing fundamental study of the use of satellite data for the estimation of air-sea fluxes over a broad area. Pursuit of the roots of the similarity laws of the windsea remains one of my present tasks.  相似文献   
43.
By synthesizing data of the turbulent structure beneath wind waves in laboratory tanks, with some re-analyses, we propose the existence of a particular turbulent boundary layer which is directly coupled with wind waves, a downward-bursting boundary layer (DBBL) in water beneath wind waves. The data set indicates that the depth of this layer is from 3 to 7, or about 5 times the significant wave height of wind waves. The data observed in laboratory tanks agree with data of acoustic observations of bubble clouds under breaking wind waves in the sea made by Thorpe (1986, 1992). It is inferred that DBBL is formed in equilibrium with the local wind waves, as a common feature from initially generated wind waves, young laboratory wind waves to mature wind waves in the sea.  相似文献   
44.
Adjustment of Wind Waves to Sudden Changes of Wind Speed   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
An experiment was conducted in a small wind-wave facility at the Ocean Engineering Laboratory, California, to address the following question: when the wind speed changes rapidly, how quickly and in what manner do the short wind waves respond? To answer this question we have produced a very rapid change in wind speed between U low (4.6 m s?1) and U high (7.1 m s?1). Water surface elevation and air turbulence were monitored up to a fetch of 5.5 m. The cycle of increasing and decreasing wind speed was repeated 20 times to assure statistical accuracy in the measurement by taking an ensemble mean. In this way, we were able to study in detail the processes by which the young laboratory wind waves adjust to wind speed perturbations. We found that the wind-wave response occurs over two time scales determined by local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment, Δt 1/T = O(10) and Δt 2/T = O(100), respectively, in the current tank. The steady state is characterized by a constant non-dimensional wave height (H/gT 2 or equivalently, the wave steepness for linear gravity waves) depending on wind speed. This equilibrium state was found in our non-steady experiments to apply at all fetches, even during the long transition to steady state, but only after a short initial relaxation Δt 1/T of O(10) following a sudden change in wind speed. The complete transition to the new steady state takes much longer, Δt 2/T of O(100) at the largest fetch, during which time energy propagates over the entire fetch along the rays (dx/dt = c g) and grows under the influence of wind pumping. At the same time, frequency downshifts. Although the current study is limited in scale variations, we believe that the suggestion that the two adjustment time scales are related to local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment is also applicable to the ocean.  相似文献   
45.
Heat balance of the upper 200 m of the sea south of Japan is studied, by the use of marine meteorological and oceanographic data at Ocean Weather Station T (29°N, 135°E), intensively obtained from June 1950 to November 1953. Local time change of the heat content in the surface layer and the net heat flux through the air-sea interface are calculated directly from these data, and the heat convergence in the sea is estimated from their residuals. Regarding the relative importance of one- and three-dimensional processes, it is found that, on a time scale of a few days to one month, the variation of heat content depends on heat convergence in the sea, while on a seasonal time scale, the heat content is determined primarily by the heat flux through the sea surface in December through February, by heat convergence within the sea from March to May, and by both processes from June to November. It is inferred that the heat convergence in the sea is caused by advection of water masses which are bounded by sharp fronts. Spectral analysis of sea surface temperature indicates that they typically take 2 to 3 days to pass the station, and their typical size is estimated as around 20 km by assuming the typical advection velocity of water masses to be 10 cm s?1.  相似文献   
46.
Nutrient regeneration and oxygen consumption after a spring bloom in Funka Bay were studied on monthly survey cruises from February to November 1998 and from March to December 1999. A high concentration of ammonium (more than 4 μmol l−1) was observed near the bottom (80–90 m) after April. Phosphate and silicate gradually accumulated and dissolved oxygen decreased in the same layer. Salinity near the bottom did not change until summer, leading to the presumption that the system in this layer is semi-closed, so regenerated nutrients were preserved until September. Nitrification due to the oxidation of ammonium to nitrate was observed after June. Nitrite, an intermediate product, was detected at 4–7 μmol L−1 in June and July 1999. Assuming that decomposition is a first order reaction, the rate constant for decomposition of organic nitrogen was determined to be 0.014 and 0.008 d−1 in 1998 and 1999, respectively. The ammonium oxidation rate increased rapidly when the ambient ammonium concentration exceeded 5 μmol L−1. We also performed a budget calculation for the regeneration process. The total amount of N regenerated in the whole water column was 287.4 mmol N m−2 in 4 months, which is equal to 22.8 gC m−2, assuming the Redfield C to N ratio. This is 34% of the primary production during the spring bloom and is comparable to the export production of 25 gC m−2 measured by a sediment trap at 60 m (Miyake et al., 1998).  相似文献   
47.
The local equilibrium between the wind and wind waves, which is defined by a range of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law between the non-dimensional significant wave height and period, is statistically investigated by using wind and wave data obtained at four ocean data buoy stations in the seas near Japan. The friction velocity is calculated from the wind speed measured at one height together with the significant wave period by using formulas of the wave dependent drag coefficient proposed by Tobaet al. (1990). The data for small waves or for weak winds indicate that the waves do not satisfy the criterion for the local equilibrium, because they may be affected by changing winds or remotely generated swells. In the seas near Japan, the data which satisfy the local equilibrium are about 6% through a year. Otherwise swells are dominant in most situations. Changing winds also cause deviations from the local equilibrium. The degree of satisfaction of the local equilibrium can be classified by ranges of the significant wave height. As the significant wave height exceeds 4 m, the local equilibrium is more frequently satisfied.  相似文献   
48.
Variations are found in the shape and the steepness of wind-generated surface gravity waves between very young waves, such as seen in a laboratory tank, and larger waves of various wave ages encountered at sea as the result of wind stress over larger fetches. These differences in the characteristic shape of wind waves are presented as a function of the wave age. The wave steepness is also expressed as a function of wave age, the measurement of which is consistent with the 3/2-power law connecting wave height and characteristic period, normalized by the air friction velocity.  相似文献   
49.
The abundance of a scyphomedusae, Aurelia aurita and Chrysaora melanaster, and a ctenophore, Bolinopsis mikado, in Tokyo Bay was investigated from 1995 to 1997. Aurelia aurita appeared throughout the year with a peak in abundance occurring from spring to summer. The average abundance and biomass during this period for the three successive years was 4.8, 43.8 and 3.2 ind. m−2, and 1.02, 10.0 and 0.42 gC m−2, respectively. The values in 1995 and 1997 were comparable with those previously reported for A. aurita abundance from 1990 to 1992. Values were very high in 1996, but the size composition of the bell diameter did not differ from other years, which suggested the absence of food limitation for A. aurita in 1996. C. melanaster was scarce over the survey period (<1.0 ind. m−2) while Bolinopsis mikado was more abundant during September to December, with maximum values of 172 ind. m−2 and 0.33 gC m−2 observed in December 1997. The weight-specific clearance rate for A. aurita on zooplankton (mainly copepods and their nauplii) was 0.16 ± 0.05 lgWW−1 h−1 (n = 13). Population clearance rate peaked from spring to summer, with average levels of 14.2%, 162% and 5.0% day−1 obtained from spring to summer for respective years. Population clearance rates for B. mikado, calculated based on minimum carbon requirements, was 7.1% day−1 in December 1997. Consequently, the trophic role of gelatinous zooplankton as predators in Tokyo Bay is important all the year round, considering the high impact of A. aurita from spring to summer and B. mikado from autumn to winter.  相似文献   
50.
This article aims to analyze how private property regimes can co-exist with common property regimes in a coastal area. The case study shows how the dynamics of private property and common property right holders is in creating commitment to make symbiosis in resource use. This is based on a case study in two villages in West Lombok, Indonesia, where pearl-culture as a private property resource exists in a common property regime. This is a successful story in dealing with the tragedy of property rights in the country wherein established institutional arrangement is still absent. Nevertheless, this may be site specific, and fragile if there is no institutional arrangement combining formal and informal rules and involving both formal and informal authorities. To make a robust solution, multilevel solution must be considered: national, local, and community level, with reference to Japan case.  相似文献   
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